The Kathryn Kennedy Winery website candidly lists some of their wines as “past prime.” Luckily, the 1997 offered by my new wine friend Danny had been cellared well, so it fit the promised drink/hold category. And I would put the bottle we opened the other evening definitely in the “drink now” class. Decanted and aerated, the wine had waves of flavor. Just when I started thinking the wine had faded, in another few minutes it would come back strongly. The wine began with blackberry and leaf, an elegant nose with a touch of eucalyptus. Very smooth mouthfeel. At first it was light on the palate, with a bit of plum, with flavors diminishing then rising again, another touch of eucalyptus. More than half an hour after pouring, with a refresh from the decanter, the wine had deepening plum flavors and tannins emerging. A light finish. Final word: damson. Recommended, but drink now. BSE

WHO: Kathryn Kennedy Winery
WHERE: Saratoga, Santa Cruz Mountains, California
WHAT: Cabernet Sauvignon
WHEN: 1997
HOW MUCH: $100

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