Cavas can be inexpensive, easy-going bubbly, but it can also be more than that. It’s worth checking out the higher-end cuvées from good producers to get a sense of that : far from being strictly creamy, with substantial pastry notes, they can also offer freshness, fine bubbles and a crisp overall feeling. The Gramona Imperial is a good example of this. Aged for 3 to 4 years, it has a certain complexity, with a beautiful, almost sensual texture, yet also a touch of citrus and apple. Being a brut, it is truly dry, just well-rounded by the aging. Very solid for the price. Delicious with dry-cured ham, chorizo, marcona almonds, olives, etc. Recommended. RC.

WHO: Gramona
WHAT: Xarel·lo (50%), Macabeo (40%), Chardonnay (10%)
WHERE: Penedes, Catalunya, Spain
WHEN: NV
HOW MUCH: $25-28

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