If a Bonny Doon label says, “A Proper Claret,” one thing you can be sure of is that it is not quite proper after all. Tannat and Syrah join traditional Bordeaux grapes here, and it works. Cabernet offers up classic cassis, softened by Merlot and leaned out by Tannat. Petit Verdot accounts for the loads of lavender. It’s New World juicy with Old World balance. Tannins are powdery and have a good grip. Florals linger in a long finish. Drink with smoked duck. Recommended. 89 points. DBH

WHO: Bonny Doon Vineyard
WHAT: 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Tannat, 13% Petit Verdot, 8% Syrah, 1% Petite Sirah
DESIGNATION: “A Proper Claret”
WHERE: California
WHEN: 2013
HOW MUCH: $18