We’re dipping into a summer feel in the middle of winter — turning up the heat and sitting down to a light fish dinner and crisp white wine. We started on this Donnafugata Grillo wine experiencing the barest whiff of freshness, and a lemon-lime attack on the palate. But over the course a half hour or so the wine warmed up and opened up into much more complexity. Honey appeared in the aroma, and the front palate became sweeter and fresher, with grassy herbs too. The lemon-lime extended itself into a chalky, long finish. Don’t serve this wine ice cold. Do try it with grilled, mild white fish. 90 points.

WHO: Donnafugata
WHAT: grillo
DESGINATION: Sur Sur
WHERE: Sicily, Italy
HOW MUCH: $23 [media sample]