Red fruit shows on the nose, sweet cherries and tart raspberries. On the palate, the tart fruit leads the sweet. Raspberries are in front, with touches of cranberry, then cherries far behind. Touches of herbs and pencil lead give depth, anchoring the wine to hints of freshly turned earth. Black fruit shows on the mid-palate and lingers. This is remarkably complex, changing continuously, a wine to ponder and enjoy. Drink with New York Strip. Highly Recommended. 91 points. DBH

WHO: Grgich Hills
WHAT: Merlot
DESIGNATION: Estate
WHERE: Napa Valley, CA
HOW MUCH: $43 (media sample)