The producers of the aperitif wine Pineau des Charentes have upped their game. In order to be labeled “very old” this traditional aperitif of the Cognac region of France must be aged in barrels for at least ten years. Which is quite a long time something that was traditionally a casual drink. The label on this wine specifies “lightly chilled,” which works well. The aroma brings to mind a pantry with wooden shelves for storing fruit. Especially pears and apricots. Mingling with this on the end-palate is a note of Poire Williams liqueur. The drink has a shortish, apricot-leather finish. 17% alcohol.

WHO: Bache Gabrielsen

WHAT: ugni blanc, Colombard, folle blanche, Semillon, sauvignon blanc, montils

WHERE: Cognac, France

HOW MUCH: $31 (media sample)